The Quidditch sweater

This pattern is not mine I am posting it in case the site ever goes down I can do this sweater later.



will fit ladies with a 38" (96.8 cm) bust.

Materials:
450g of double knitting yarn in MC:
- Red for Gryffindor
- Yellow for Hufflepuff
- Blue for Ravenclaw
- Green for Slytherin
100g of double knitting yarn in CC:
- Gold for Gryffindor
- Black for Hufflepuff
- Bronze for book Ravenclaw
- Silver for movie Ravenclaw
- Silver for Slytherin
US7 (4.5 mm) needles
Note: The author tends to knit very tightly and mentionned others will probably need to use a size or two smaller needle than she did.
Gauge
22 sts per 4" (10 cm) by 30 rows per 4" (10 cm)

Instructions:
Front
Cast on 120 sts in MC. Work in K2P2 until the piece measures 14 1/2" (36.8 cm) from beginning.

Change to CC and work 4" (10.2 cm) even.

Armhole Shaping
Change back to CC and cast off 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, then 2 sts at the beg of the following 2 rows.

Dec. 1 st each side every other row 5 times - 100 sts remain.

Work even until 23 1/2" (59.7 cm)from the beg.

Neck Shaping
Work first 44 sts; work next 12 sts and place on holder for neck; work rem 44 sts.

Working each side separately, cast off 4 sts at neck edge on next 2 rows. Cast off 2 sts at neck edge on following 2 rows.

Dec 1 st on neck edge every other row 7 times. Work even until 26 1/2" (67.3 cm) from the beg.

Shoulder Shaping
At armhole edge, cast off 11 sts on next 4 rows.

Cast off rem 9 sts.

Back
Work as for front, omitting neck shaping. Place rem 38 sts on a holder.

Sleeves
Cast on 62 sts in MC. Work k1, p1 rib for 3" (7.6 cm).

Continue in k2, p2 rib, inc 1 st on each side every 8 rows 15 times - 92 sts remain.

At the same time, when 15 1/2" (38.4 cm) from beg change to CC and work 4" (10.2 cm).

Top Shaping
Change to MC and cast off 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, and 2 sts at the beg of following 4 rows. Dec 1 st at each side every other row 15 times. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 8 rows then 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off rem 20 sts.

Neck Band and Finishing
Sew right shoulder seam.

With CC and right side facing, pick up and knit 26 sts along left front neck edge, 12 sts from holder, 26 sts along right front neck edge, and 38 sts from back holder - 102 sts in total.

Work in k1, p1 rib for 4 rows. Change to main colour and continue for 20 rows. Cast off loosely.

Sew left shoulder seam. Fold neck band in half to the wrong side and sew.

Set in sleeves.

Sew underarm seams.

House Elf Socks



If you're going to go to the party dressed as a Muggle, at least have Dobby knit you some cool socks!!

© Ashwinder

Materials:

1 skein of worsted weight yarn in the following colors: dark green, bright red, black and yellow Note: The author used Le Yarn, by Pingouin, a wool/acrylic blend, and mentionned that 100% wool wouldn't wear as well.
Set of 5 US3 (3.25 mm) DPN needles (or the size you need to obtain the proper gauge)
Set of 5 US5 (3.75 mm) DPN needles (or the size you need to obtain the proper gauge) Gauge 20 stitches per 4" (10 cm) and 6 1/2 rounds per 4" (10 cm)

Charts

Snitch



Broom



Instructions:
Green Sock
Cast on 60 stitches using US3 (3.25 mm) needles and green yarn.

Join in a round and work 2" (5.1 cm) in k1, p1 ribbing. Increase to 64 sts in the last round.

Change to US 5 (3.75 mm) needles and work from the first chart, joining colors where necessary and being careful to twist yarn when changing colors so as to not leave a hole.

Work 2 reps of the chart, then work 2 rounds in green, dec to 61 sts on the last round (or adjust to obtain desired length). Break yarn.

Heel
Sl first 16 sts onto one needle. Sl next 30 sts onto a second needle. Sl rem 15 sts onto first needle (31 sts on this needle.) Join green yarn.

Row 1: *k1, sl 1, being careful not to tighten yarn behind slipped st; rep. From * to last st, k1.

Row 2: k1, p to last st, k1.

Rep these rows 8 times more (18 rows total), dec 2 sts across last row.

Heel shaping (short rows)
Row 1: K 14, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 1, turn.

Row 2: p 3, p 2 tog, p 1, turn

Row 3: k 4, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 1, turn.

Row 4: p 5, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.

Row 5: k 6, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 1, turn.

Row 6: p 7, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.

Row 7: k 8, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 1, turn.

Row 8: p 9, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.

Row 9: k 10, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 1, turn.

Row 10: p 11, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.

Row 11: k 12, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 1, turn.

Row 12: p 13, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.

Row 13: k 14, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 1, turn. Break yarn.

Instep
Join yarn at base of heel.

Pick up and k 10 sts along side of heel flap, k across sts left from heel, pick up and k 10 sts along other side of heel flap.

K across the rem sts., and k 18 sts to centre of heel.

Divide onto three needles thus:
- First needle: half the heel sts, ten sts picked up along the side of heel flap, 1 st from instep (19 sts);
- Second needle: next 28 sts; third needle rem 19 sts (66 sts in rnd).

Instep Shaping
Knit to last three sts on first needle, k 2 tog, k 1; k across sts on second needle; k1, sl 1, k 1, psso, k to end. K 1 round even.

Rep these two rnds until there are 52 sts in round. Work even in St st until work measures as follows from where sts were picked up from instep:
- Sizes 5 and 6: 3" (7.6 cm)
- Size 7: 3 1/2" (8.9 cm)
- Size 8: 4" (10.2 cm)
- Size 9: 5" (12.7 cm)
- Size 10: 6" (15.2 cm)

Toe Shaping
Divide sts as follows: 13 sts on first needle, 26 sts on second needle, 13 sts on third needle.

Join black yarn.

K to last 3 sts on first needle, k 2 tog, k 1, k 1, sl 1, k 1, psso, work to last 3 sts on second needle, k 2 tog, k 1, k 1, sl 1, k 1, psso, k to end.

Work 1 round even.

Rep these last 2 rounds until there are 24 sts in round.

Divide sts onto two needles.

Break yarn, leaving a 12" end. Weave sts tog.

Red Sock
Work as for green sock, EXCEPT:
- Use red yarn;
- On last row of ribbing, inc to 65 sts;
- Follow second chart for the pattern.

Hermione's time-turner

I am posting this again to make sure I will be able to do this later. I do not own this. This how to is posted at potterparties.com

This easy to make and fun accessory will be the perfect touch to your costume! Make sure you have one of these to give as a party favor, or to make sure you have time to read your book.

© Christine

Materials:

Supplies 1 15 mm hourglass charm 1 2-inch (5-cm) head pin 2 .118 inch round spacers 2 5 mm decorative beads (the author used metal beehives) 3 6 mm jump rings 2 8 mm tube beads (or other beads to fill gap between hourglass and ring) Needle nose pliers Superglue

Instructions:

Open up one jump ring and insert it through the loop in the top of the hour glass charm, then around the medium split ring. Close the jump ring and position it at 12:00 on the medium split ring (with the open ends of the split ring being at 6:00) Tighten the jump ring as much as possible around the split ring so that it will not move around.

Insert headpin through 5 mm decorative bead then push through side of largest split ring (at 9:00). Thread on one round spacer and then push through side of medium split ring (at 9:00). Thread on one 8 mm tube ring or other beads to equal 8 mm. Then thread through the hourglass charm. Add another tube ring and then push through the other side of the medium split ring (at 9:00). Add second round spacer then push through the other side of the largest split ring (at 9:00). Add the second 5 mm decorative bead. Bend wire around last bead and tuck end between bead and split ring to secure.

Open up 2 jump rings and put them around the largest split ring, before closing them back up thread on each one a small split ring or another jump ring. Close the ring and tighten as much as you can around the large split ring so it will not slide around. Position at 11:00 and 1:00 and add some super glue to keep it in place. Tach each end of the chain to the smallest split rings (or free jump rings) at 1:00 and 11:00.

Dani's Dobby Socks
Tribute to the Wizard Socks
Designed by Danyala Cook

This Pattern is no longer on-line so I decided to post it for the purpose of doing it later.



In the forth book Dobby makes the Wizard some socks, which the Wizard wears to the Yule Ball. I loved how Dobby does not think socks should be the same. So here is my version of Dobby's socks for the Wizard.. These socks were made for my daughter, K'Yala, to go with the Tribute to the Wizard Sweater. This pattern is no longer available. Please be patient, I may have found a source with the pattern. These socks will fit a woman's medium foot.



Supplies: 1 skein each, Royale Hare SuperWash 100% Merino Yarn, 2 ounces each, of royale red, pine green, yellow,and black. You will also need a small amount of gold metallic yarn. You may use scraps of yellow, black and gold. Size 3 double-point needles, size 2 double-point needles, tapestry needle.

Note:These socks are knitted in the round, with the red or green. The pattern is duplicate stitched on.

Both Socks

With size 3 double-point needles, using continental style, cast on 56 sts with the red and green colors. That is: holding the red and green yarns together, make a slip knot and place on your needle. With the red yarn on your thumb and the green yarn on your index finger, cast on. Do not count the slip knot as a stitch.

*Knit 1 in green, purl 1 in green, knit 1 in red, purl 1 in red.* Repeat from * to * around. Repeat this row until the length desired. I did 6 rows.

Cuff Change to size 2 needles and knit even in the red (for Broomstick Sock) for 62 rows. For Snitches Sock change to the green yarn and knit even for 62 rows.

Heel Flap

K14 sts.

For Broomstick Sock turn and change to green yarn.(For Snitches Sock turn and change to red yarn. Put remaining 28 sts onto one needle to be held for instep. Work back and forth on the heel sts only and starting with the right side --> (Remember this color should be green for Broomstick Sock and red for Snitches Sock.)

<-- Row: * sl1, k1*, repeat across row.Next Row: : sl1, purl to end.Repeat these two rows 13 times. This will make a total of 28 heel rows or 14 chain-edge stitches. End ready to start a right-side row.

Turn the Heel This sock has a Round Heel.Row 1: Knit to the middle of the row, K2, sl1, K1, PSSO, K1, turn work.Row 2: Sl 1, p5, p2 tog, p1, turn.Row 3: Sl1, k to 1 st away from the gap, sl 1, k1, PSSO, k1, turn. Row 4: Sl 1, p to 1 st away from gap, p2 tog, pl 1, turn.Continue in this manner, always working together the 2 sts on each side of the gap. When all sts have been used up from both sides knit to the middle of the right side row, then change to red yarn(for Broomstick Sock) or green (for Snitches Sock).

Heel Gusset Knit the second half of the heel stitches onto the needle containing the first half of the heel stitches. With the same needle, pick up and knit 14 sts along the right side of heel. With a empty needle, knit across instep stitches. With remaining empty needle, pick up and k14 sts along left side of heel and work across remaining heel sts. Half the number of heel sts plus right side sts of gusset are on needle 1, the instep stitches are on needle 2, and the other half of the heel sts plus left side sts of gusset are on needle 3.

Shape Gusset

Row 1: Starting with needle 1 knit to 3 sts away from the end of the needle, k2tog, k1. Knit across instep needle (number 2). On needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end of needle.Next row: knit even.Repeat these 2 rows until you have 14 sts on needle 1, 14 sts on needle 3, and 28 sts on needle 2. Knit even until 2 inches less than desired length.

Shape Toe

Change to green yarn (for Broomstick Sock - red for Snitches Sock).
Row 1: Knit to 3 sts away from needle 1, k2tog, k1.
K1, Ssk at beginning of needle 2. Knit to 3 sts away from end of needle 2, k2tog, k1.
K1, ssk at beginning of needle 3. Knit to end.
Next Row: Knit even.
Repeat these two rows until 28 stitches are left. Then repeat Row 1 until 8 stitches are remaining.

Cut yarn leaving a tail and draw through the remaining stitches, pulling snug. Weave the ends into the inside of sock.

Click on the word, SOCKS_GRID, to see the patterns for both socks. This is printable.

(Again the site is down so the link will take you to web archive for grid)

The broomstick is as seen. For snitch "o" is white and the "x" is gold. Duplicate stitch the patterns in place.The broomstick pattern is as follows: skip 2 rows from the ribbing* put 1 pattern skip 2 columns and repeat from * until you have 4 broomsticks.I skipped 2 columns and put another row of broomsticks, however I moved over 7 rows from where the first broomstick started. This makes the broomsticks look like they are zigzagging. I did this on every row of broomsticks. You should be able to put 4 broomsticks per column and there should be 3 rows.

For the Snitches Sock: I skipped 2 rows and put 1 pattern of snitch, then skipped 4 columns and put another pattern of snitch. Then skipped 3 columns and put another pattern of snitch, then skipped 3 columns again. Then I skipped 2 rows and repeated the previous row starting 8 columns from where the first snitch began. This makes the pattern of snitches look like they are zigzagging also.

Have fun and good luck.

TechGuy Socks, by Alison Hansel

This pattern is no longer on-line so I am posting it for my own purpose so I can archive it and make it when ever I want to.



This sock pattern, written for supersoft, superlight, superwash sport weight yarn, is a great basic pattern that can be used to make your tech guy smart looking socks with just a touch of tech. Or, if your guy’s not so geeky, leave out the tech and make regular guy socks. (Heck, knit the small size and make some for yourself!) For techy socks, use one of the charts provided or make your own. In fact, most of the images from old video games or computer screenshots are already pixelated for you. Just draw in the graph lines and you’ve got yourself a chart! For plain socks, I recommend using a manly 3x1 rib down the leg and top of the foot.

Either way, the socks are knit with short-row heels and toes for greater comfort and less bulk. The pattern follows Priscilla Gibson-Roberts’ technique of using backward yarnovers to construct short rows. Don’t worry, doing short rows is just like knitting socks: it may look frighteningly complex, but just follow the directions and it’ll all be okay. If you’d like more information on Gibson-Roberts’ technique, check out her book Simple Socks: Plain and Fancy.



Difficulty Level
Intermediate

Measurements
Women’s or Men’s S, Men’s M, Men’s L
Calf/Foot circumference: 8.5 (9.25, 10) inches
(all socks shown are Men’s M)

Materials needed
[MC]: 2 hanks Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sport [100 g; 100% superwash wool; 200 yds.] (shown in black #16ns, pewter #9ns, and denim #14ns)
(possible substitutes: Opal Gems Merino, Brown Sheep NatureSpun Sport)
oddments of other colors for embellishment
set of 3.25mm/US4 double-pointed needles, or size required to get gauge
tapestry needle

Gauge
24 stitches and 28 rows = 4" / 10cm square in stockinette stitch

Special Instructions
1x1 rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *to* for the entire round
3x1 rib: *K3, P1*, repeat from *to* for the entire round

Short-row yarnover: after turning work, hold yarn in WRONG position for working the next row (i.e., behind the work for a purl row and in front of work for a knit row), and work first stitch by bringing yarn over needle.
Short-row K3tog: untwist the next two yarnovers by inserting right needle into each one through the back loop, slipping it to right needle, and then returning it to left needle, then knit the same two yarnovers together with the stitch immediately following them
Short-row P3tog tbl: slip next two yarnovers and the stitch following them to right needle KNITWISE, return them to left needle and purl them together through the back loops



Instructions

Leg:
Using the long tail cast on method, cast on 52 (56, 60) stitches. Distribute evenly over four double pointed needles and join to work in the round. Work 12 rounds in 1x1 rib for cuff. Continue leg in desired pattern: 3X1 rib for a plain sock, or stockinette stitch if you are planning to embellish the sock with a design. Note: If your design includes horizontal stripes (like the Breakout socks) you can work the stripes as you knit the leg. Other designs that would require intarsia should be added afterward with duplicate stitch. Continue until leg is 7-8” long or desired length to heel bone.

Heel:
The short-row heel will be worked in stockinette stitch, back and forth, over approximately half the stitches. For each row you will work one less stitch than the row before, turn the work without completing the rest of the row, and make a special yarnover to start the following row (see Special Instructions above) in order to prevent gaps from forming.

Note: If leg was worked in 3x1 rib, redistribute stitches so that the heel is centered as evenly as possible between ribs. This may mean that you won’t be using exactly half the stitches for the heel – that’s okay.
Begin heel: K26 (28, 30) stitches on to one needle, turn, work yarnover (see Special Instructions), purl back across heel stitches, turn and work yarnover again. The first and last stitches of the heel should now have a snug little yarnover attached to them.

Shape the heel by working as follows. On RS, knit up to the first stitch with a yarnover (do NOT work this stitch or its yarnover), turn, and make new yarnover. On WS, purl up to the first stitch with a yarnover (do NOT work this stitch or its yarnover), turn, and make new yarnover. Continue in this manner until only 8 stitches remain in the middle without yarnovers.

Now begin widening the heel again by knitting up to the first stitch with a yarnover, knit that stitch, and then untwist its yarnover by inserting the right needle into the back loop and slipping it over. Slip it back to the left needle and knit it together with the following stitch.* Turn and make new yarnover. Next row: Purl up to the first stitch with a yarnover, purl that stitch, and then slip its yarnover and the following stitch KNITWISE on to the right needle. Slip them back to the left needle and purl them together through the back loop.**

Continue as follows. RS rows: Knit to first stitch with a yarnover, knit that stitch, and in the same manner as at *, K3tog (see also short row K3tog in Special Instructions). Turn and make new yarnover. WS rows: Purl to first stitch with a yarnover, purl that stitch, and in the same manner as at **, P3tog tbl (see also short row P3tog tbl in Special Instructions). Turn and make new yarnover. When you reach the last stitch on each edge of the heel, you will need to work its two yarnovers together with first instep stitch on the next needle. Don’t forget to make a new yarnover when you turn the work! Once you have reincorporated this last heel stitch on the knit and purl side, you should be on the RS and have a single yarnover left at each edge of the heel. ***

Begin working in the round again. Knit the first of the two remaining yarnovers together with the instep stitch following it. Knit around to the stitch before the second yarnover and knit it together with the yarnover. Note: You may find that the stitches at the edge of the heel are a little loose and look like a hole. You can use your knitting needle to tighten up the loose stitch. Pull the extra yarn, one stitch at a time, through every stitch in that row, leaving a little bit of the slack in each following stitch. This redistributes the looseness over the whole row so it is not noticeable. If a pesky hole still remains, you can always weave in some extra yarn on the inside at the edges when you’re done.

Foot:

Redistribute stitches evenly over four needles again and work in the round in desired pattern until foot is approximately 1.5 inches shorter than desired length. Note: If leg was worked in 3x1 rib, continue rib pattern over the instep stitches but knit all stitches across the sole (below the heel). When foot is approximately 1.5 inches shorter than desired length, work one round in stockinette stitch.

Toe:
Be sure that stitches are divided evenly, with exactly half the stitches on two needles for the top of the toe and half the stitches on the other two needles for the bottom of the toe. Redistribute if necessary. Work the toe over the bottom half of stitches (below the heel) exactly as the heel was worked until ***. At this point, all toe stitches have been reincorporated into the toe. Using kitchener stitch, graft the toe stitches to the instep stitches.


Make second sock.


Finishing

Weave in ends. Embroider design on to side of leg using duplicate stitch. Be careful not to pull embroidery or duplicate stitches too tightly, so as not to distort the shape of the sock or make it too snug.

Charts

Breakout:



Apple: